Propagation
Take semi-hardwood cuttings from spring to autumn.

Graft onto C. sasanqua rootstock during early spring.
During a growing period used air layering on the branches.


Botanic information
Leaf: The leathery textured leaves are broad elliptical to oblong-elliptical with an acuminate apex and a short petiole. The upper surface is dark green tending yellowish in some cultivars and the underside is pale green. The leaves have net venation and the base is cuneate.

Flower: The species produces large a single rose red crateriform flowers and the cultivars are avalable in single, semi-double or double flowers. They appear solitary from late winter to spring.

Fruit: The globose loculicidal capsule is woody and contains 1 to 3 brown seeds that are viable, but the plant is commonly reproduced vegetatively to maintain true to type.

Culture
Soil
Sandysoil should be enriched with the addition of rotted leaf mould or lime free compost. Peatmoss may also be dug in to the soil to add texture.
Claysoils can be improved with the addition of gypsum and course sand. Cultivate well before planting and mulch with leaf mould.

Planting
When planting dig a hole that is twiceas big as the container and water the plant thoroughly before removing. Adjust the depth of the hole to match the depth of the pot and firm the soil down. Place the plant in the hole with the pot level and soil level equal.
Roots that are circling the pot shape may be teased out but be careful not to damage the root ball. Backfill and firm soil down then mulch heavily with composted leaf mould or cow manure.Water in welland stake the plant if required.

Watering
Watering of the plant is dependent on several factors.
Climate; in a wet area less watering is required and in a drier area watering is carried out more frequently.
Soil type; soils with a poor structure as in a sandy loam require more regular watering than a clay loam.
Budding period of the plant requires a good soaking once a week and if planting occurs during hotweather more frequent watering is required.
Generally speaking the soil should remain moistbut not wet and this is helped with adequate surface mulch and monitoring.

Fertilising
As the first sighs of new growth occur during spring fertilising may commence. Use liquid or slow release fertiliser and ensure that the plant in thoroughly wateredbefore and after fertilising. Do not over fertilise as this will impede the plants development but fertilising may be carried out through summer on a regularbasis. Mulches may incorporate milled cow manure; blood and bone mixed with leaf mould or compost.
Container plantsmay be feed with liquid or slow release fertiliser once established. It is very important to water regularly and do not allow the pot to dry out, but don't sit the container in a saucer of water as this restricts drainage. Use only quality potting mix and pick a container that is not too large for the plant.

Flower Balling
There are a number of reasons for the buds not opening or falling off.
It may be that there are too many budson the tree and manual removal may help or the sun is too strongfor that species and protection is required. Some of the older varieties tend to ball easily. Choose the correct variety for the position or improve the culture of the existing plant to overcome this problem.

Pruning
Plants are normally pruned after floweringduring spring to summer. Old plants may be pruned during autumn as a form of disbudding. Young plants may be trained to a single leader or tip pruned to bushy up and older plants may be cut back to mature wood. When transplanting mature plants reduce the foliage by 50% and disbud completely.

Other pest problems
Camellias are susceptible to many pests and diseases including the following Soft Brown Scale, Bag Shelter Moths, Dieback in Camellia, Fungal Leaf Spot, Fuller`s Rose Weevil, Leaf Gall in Camellia, Flower Blight, Spot Disease, Florida Red Scale, Bud Drop or Bud Balling, Tea Scale, Leafcutting Bee, Sooty Mold, Red Scale, Sunscald, Oedema in Camellia and Ringspot in Camellia.